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Taj Mahal

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The Taj Mahal  is one of the world’s most famous and recognizable buildings. Remember a forlorn Princess Diana sitting on the famous bench, all alone?  Her prince was not with her. According to our guide, the Shah, who had this built, did not poke out the Persian architect’s eyes when construction was complete, to insure this design would forever be unique. Many blinded eyes would have been needed to insure that.  Just a myth.  The true story is quite romantic and familiar to most of us, but there are a few details I learned to share with you. The Shah Jaham had the Taj Mahal built as a burial vault for his beloved wife Mumtaz who died in the 16th century. But I get ahead of myself. The story goes that the Shah and his wife were camping in the mountains when their 14th child decided to be born early. Mumtaz developed complications, but before she died asked three things of her husband.  She wanted him to promise never to remarry, to cherish and care for their children, and to build her a monument for the world to see of their great love.  The third request became his life’s passion and work. It has been described as “one of the most elegant and harmonious buildings in the world.” The height struck us as when first seeing the Pyramids of Giza. The setting is a garden, not just your ordinary garden but an image of the Islamic garden of paradise.Image  The cost was 41,000,000 rupees, 1,102 pounds of gold and it took 20,000 workers twelve years to complete.  The Shah’s plan was to build himself a matching tomb, but crafted of black  onyx.  Imagine!  But his oldest son, the new Shah put his father in the fort as a prisoner for the last eight years of his life.  The young Shah thought his father had spent enough rupees on  his extravagant projects. Maybe the father had not spent enough time “loving and cherishing” that son!

It is impossible for me to say something unforgettable about this day in Agar at the Taj.  I will just retell how we spent our time.   We spent two nights so we had parts of two days to visit. We got up and walked to be at the site for the sunrise.Image In India, you are always assured of a sunrise though some are heightened by pollution which brightens the color.   We left the hotel at 5:45, yes all the sleepy- headed students, to capture an unforgettable sunrise shot.  The grounds open at 6:30 and we were in line for tickets before six.  The ticket was for one entry and we had hoped to enter early, go back for breakfast and then return.  Much discussion followed.  Some chose to enter then and stay. Others went with David and me to walk along the high brick wall to get a behind the Taj shot.  As you can see, we weren’t disappointed.  We also saw the river and a parade of monkeys jump from the trees and line up on the Taj wall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIrHGgBI2SM&feature=youtu.be   (Thanks Erin)   Security was extra tight. One person had a hand gun and all that happened was he was told to put it in a locker!  We all shuddered to think of a terrorist attack here!  If you are planning a visit, Friday the site is closed to all but Muslims who are permitted to pray in the mosque which adjoins the tomb.Image About half the kids stayed at the Taj from sunrise to sunset and no food is allowed inside.  Others were there for many hours and even watched the sunset from the roof of a restaurant.562358_10152310851099460_1388457796_n  Though it is hard to put any of this in anything but cliches …. I think awe is what we all felt at the size, perfection, and beauty overwhelming us.  The next day we had to have just a last visit as we rolled out of town.  The driver took us across the river to the unused site of the onyx tomb for some shots of sunrise and the Taj  reflected  in the water.  The kids raced along the river with guards frantically blowing their whistles… ecstatic Black-Friday shoppers racing for the perfect pix instead of the perfect gift. (Thanks Liz for the picture.)

The Taj Mahal has been described as “a poem, a vision, and a wonder.”  My favorite is David’s words describing it as a “sublimely useless” building.

Nameste….T I I

( There is a rumor circulating of some architecture students and their professor “flash dancing” that may be posted on YouTube…..stay tuned…..)Image



Dancing (Harlem Shake Style) at the Taj Mahal

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Watch the video to the end!   Is there any wonder we love these guys so much?  Look at the confused expression on the faces of the Indians! lol100_3028

Namaste. . . .. This Is Incredible India with incredible students!

 


Itinerary of North Trip

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Bathing in the Ganga as the sun rises on another day. . . . . .

People have asked where we visited., so here you can see the itinerary. We went to the north first, which was a mistake. When we went on the south trip it was extremely hot. If we go again, David will reverse the order of the trips.

The following is the itinerary for the north which began in  late February. Our journey north was  filled with sacred and secular architecture.   I wasn’t  able to post while we are travelling.  DBell leaves very little downtime and internet was spotty along with electricity.  Google the places and see some wonderful pictures, and I have included images of just a few of the major sites.  Professor worked with a travel agent who made the reservations. We stayed in * * * hotels because the last group stayed in * * hotels and there were rats in some of the rooms. Our hostel is * * * and quite comfortable. Hotels provided guides which was very beneficial for getting around and overcoming the language differences mostly lack of English and our lack of Hindi or local languages.

We did not go  to Allahabad, but there was  a festival going on there for 55 days.  It is when Hindus from across the world come to bathe in the Ganges. The festival is called Maha Kumbh Mela.maha-kumbh-mela-concludes-today-in-allahabad The opening weekend, there was an estimated crowd of 30 million.   This year the estimated attendance for the complete festival will be 110 million which is 1/3 of the population of the United States. It was  the largest gathering of humanity in a single place in history. Already, 275,000 people have gotten lost from their family.  I have no idea how they reconnect. I cannot get my head around these numbers.

AHMEDABAD

PROPOSED ITINERARY FOR FIELD TRIP FEBRUARY 23 – MARCH 10, 2013 FOR 13 PEOPLE (SELF, WIFE, 11 RENSSELAER STUDENTS)

REQUESTING 1 COACH, ROUND TRIP FLIGHT DELHI TO VARANASI (COACH IN VARANASI), TRAIN FRPM FOR 13  PEOPLE, TRAIN FROM DELHI TO AHMEDABAD

FEBRUARY 23

Depart at 6:00 am from Presidency Enclave, 7 Darshan Society, Samved Hospital Road (near Nidhi Hospital), Navrangpura, Ahmedabad 380009

2 nights in Udaipur (February 23 & 24)

Visit: Jag Niwas (Lake Palace), City Palace, Mor Chowk

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This is the site of filming of Octopussy, a James Bond film.  City Palace in Udiapur.

Depart for Jaipur on February 25 at 7:00am

Visit either Kumbhalgarh Fort or Chittogarh Fort on the way to Jaipur

 

2 nights in Jaipur (February 25 & 26)

Visit: Pink City, Jantar Mantar, Jami Masjid (mosque), City Palace Museum, Jawahr Kala Kendra (20th c.,             Charles Correa) The Amber Fort

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Amber Fort and elephant rides on the outskirts of Jai Pur, the Pink City.

Depart for Agra on February 27 at 7:00am

Visit Chand Baori step well near Abhaneri on the way to Agra

 

2 nights in Agra (February 27 & 28)

Visit: Taj Mahal, Fatepur Sikri (Jami Masjid complex), Mathura

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Depart for Delhi on March 1 at 7:00am

 

2 nights in Delhi (March 1 & 2)

Visit: Chandini Chowk, Jantar Mantar

Depart for Amritsar on March 3 at 7:00am

 

2 nights in Amritsar (March 3 & 4)

Visit Golden Temple, Guru ka Langar (free kitchen), Border closing ceremony

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Sikh Golden Temple

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Wagha Border Closing with Pakistan

Depart for Chandigarh on March 5 at 7:00am

 

1 night in Chandigarh (March 5)

Visit: Le Corbusier buildings

Depart for Delhi on March 6 at 1:00pm

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 India Gate in New Dehli 

 

1 night in Delhi (March 6)

Depart by air for Varanasi on March 7 before noon, coach for 18 picks us up at Varanasi airport and we will have the coach available while we visit Varanasi

 

2 nights in Varanasi (March 7 & 8)

Visit: Ghats, Jantar Mantar, Vishnawath Temple, Dhamek Stupa

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Depart on morning flight to Delhi on March 9, coach for 18 picks us up at Delhi airport

Leave Delhi on overnight train to Ahmedabad (March 9)

 

ARRIVE IN AHMEDABAD ON MORNING OF MARCH 10

Oh just looking at this images now, brings back such wonderful memories!

Google Images. . . . public domain


A Twist on the Taj Mahal Story

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The rose color that permeates the white marble at sunrise. . .

25 June 2014 Last updated at 20:43

Taj Mahal: Was India’s ‘monument to love’ built out of guilt?

A scene from Urdu play Shah Jahan-o-Mumtaz

Often described as one of the wonders of the world, the stunning 17th Century white marble Taj Mahal was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth.

But a new play which recently premiered in India gives a dramatic and unexpected twist to historical events. The production of Shah Jahan-o-Mumtaz suggests that all was not well in the lovers’ paradise and questions the motive behind the building of the Taj.

Everyone knows it as a monument to love, but could it in fact have been built out of guilt?

The play was originally written in English in the 1970s as the Tale of the Taj by Dilip Hiro, a London-based author, playwright and expert on international affairs.

“Conflict is the driving force in my script,” Mr Hiro told the BBC. And here, he explores “the conflict between the couple whose mutual love is embossed on the popular psyche”.

“Start Quote

Mumtaz was a far-sighted political thinker, an astute strategist and schemer, and the woman behind as well as ahead of her man”

M Sayeed AlamDirector of Shah Jahan-o-Mumtaz

“As an Indian, one is mesmerised by the Taj. The conventional story behind it is Shah Jahan’s eternal love for Mumtaz.

“To put it bluntly, there is no drama in sentimental mush praising beauty and so on, so the play had to be about achieving the supreme power – the imperial throne.”

The play is being performed for the first time in Urdu, a language extensively used by people during Shah Jahan’s reign and still spoken and understood by large numbers of Indians today.

Not a beautiful-dutiful wife?Mumtaz was Shah Jahan’s third and favourite wife and their love story is legendary.

It is generally believed that she was a beautiful and devoted wife who was content to have lots of children with her husband – she died giving birth to their 14th child.

“But there was another side to her that’s not well-known – that she was not at all the beautiful-dutiful wife. She was a very good chess player, far better than Shah Jahan, and that she was ambitious and ruthless,” says director M Sayeed Alam of the Delhi-based theatre group Pierrot’s Troupe.

Historians agree that imperial women in the Mughal period exercised significant political authority.

The Taj MahalThe Taj Mahal was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal

“Mumtaz wielded considerable political power and influence and there are plenty of historical documents confirming her involvement in administrative matters and government orders,” Delhi University professor Farhat Hasan says.

The play recreates 17th Century Delhi, buzzing with political intrigue where the fight for political power was often ugly and bloody.

It opens with the rivalry for the imperial throne between Shah Jahan and his brother Prince Pervez, and Mumtaz plays a crucial role in her husband’s victory by poisoning his rival.

As the play progresses, different shades of Mumtaz’s personality come to the fore – a devoted wife who is a guide and adviser to her husband, but at the same time with a mind of her own.

“She’s a far-sighted political thinker, an astute strategist and schemer, and the woman behind as well as ahead of her man,” Mr Alam says.

A scene from Urdu play Shah Jahan-o-MumtazShah Jahan cradles his dying wife after the fall

The play’s great surprise centres on a high-stakes game of chess played one evening, when a pregnant Mumtaz nudges the emperor to bet his throne. When he loses the game she ascends the throne, giving free rein to her ruthlessness and ambition.

The emperor then realises that his beloved queen must be stopped. A tussle over the royal seal ends with her fall from the throne, and soon Mumtaz dies in childbirth.

But was it a mere accident or was she pushed?

The play is open-ended – it doesn’t say in so many words that Mumtaz was killed. But it does leave one with a lingering suspicion, that perhaps the emperor did have a role in her death.

The departure from accepted historical fact certainly didn’t trouble the audience the night I went along – they gave it a standing ovation, and there have been rave reviews.

“The play focuses on the politician in Mumtaz rather than the lover boy in Shah Jahan,” The Hindu said, describing it as a “great idea”. The Deccan Herald welcomed the fact that “what has been etched in our memories” had been questioned and the audience challenged to look at events from a female perspective.

So, as some critics are asking – is the Taj Mahal truly “a monument to murder”?

Well, it really is a work of fiction – there is no suggestion in history that she could have been murdered. Mr Hiro says it is actually “faction” – where “fiction blends ingeniously with facts” to create interesting drama.

 

This is a definite twist on the greatest love story every told!  I know that the queens of this period did have much power given to them by their Mogul husbands. The step-wells were  constructed in Gujurat under the direction of Mogual queens.

 And  of course , there is the attention of Thomas Jefferson and his affair and children  with Sally Hemming , one of his slaves as another example of the need that seems the way these days to point to the humanity  of our leaders to often the determent of  acknowledgement of their many contributions.   and this  play  that is discussed on the BBC now has a 17th century  queen acting   like a 21st Century feminist.  Amusing to say the least!

First image from Google Public Domain


Security in India. . . . . The Taj Mahal

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One of the most beautiful buildings in the world, the Taj Mahal,  in its gleaming white marble and semiprecious Indian stones bathed in the “sky blue pink” of the dawn.  Even more beautiful  is  the story of the love of the Shah Jahan for his favorite wife Mumtaz after she gave birth to his fourteenth child while traveling in the countryside  with her husband. Mumtaz was buried in the country where she died  in 1631.  Her husband began the the construction of her tomb in 1632 and was completed 16 years later in 1648 when his beloved favorite wife was laid to rest in her tomb.  This  dramatic mausoleum is considered the “jewel of Muslim Art in India.”  It is one of the wonders of the world and has millions of visitors from around the world each year.

The students said that they had been asked over and over if they had seen the Taj, and now would be able to answer in the affirmative!   The Taj is a universal symbol of India.  When we were there a few days ago, it was evident that security has was much ramped  up from our visit in 2013. Parking is in lots very far from the wall and entrance.  There is a metal detector and bags are searched and patted down.  This is the letter of the law for foreigners and Indians  alike.One new restriction was that the students could not take pens and their sketch books!   They were all excited to draw and had started as we stood on the river bank opposite the Taj  to watch the sunrise early in the morning.  It was a crushing blow for them not to be able to document their visit with  a sketch.  It was explained that India wants to protect the beautiful marble from initials written in the buildings.  Already  a restriction in 2013 was no water  or food allowed.   This we were glad of because there is no trash and the site is pristine. Some of the students last trip stayed from early morning and stayed without food or water for the whole day. . . . . filming , shooting images, and of course sketching!   If you leave , you need to buy another ticket for reentry and at 750 rupees  which is roughly $12.50.   We were so looking forward to having dinner on a rooftop restaurant in Agra as the light faded to dankness and enveloped the Taj.  Much to our disappointment, the government had closed those restaurants on the roofs  for protection for the visitors!   Just more rights taken away in a democracy. . . . for our own good.  These rights removed in these circumstances never seem to be returned to the people.  It seems this is happening everywhere, and I for one am not happy. Freedom of choice and freedom of the press in editing news such as India forbidding the documentary of “India’s Daughter” is stopped  to prevent violence in the streets.  These are rights that are an integral part of democracy. . . . is is slowly slipping away?

Previous post on the Taj for those of you who might want to see  it.

http://talesalongtheway.com/2014/05/01/all-sorts-of-foolishness-at-the-sublime-taj-mahal/

This Is Incredible India!

 

 


Baby Taj

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Before leaving Aurangabad and the Ellora Caves,   we had more architecture to visit.  Bibi Ka Maqbara  is the main monument of the city of Aurangabad and is an imitation of the Taj Mahal , as you can see in these images.

Both were built as tombs by Moguls, Muslim  rulers; the Taj for a wife queen and the Bibi Ka Maqbara for a queen mother.

As you can see from the side by side photograph, there are similarities such as use of while marble, the approach, but the maintenance of the building is different in scale.   There were lots of locals there the morning we visited and they seemed happy to see some tourists. We were tired and underwhelmed with this site but glad to know about the second Taj.    The obvious difference was that the carved marble flowers did not house semi-precious gems. It was  very obvious that  though the son wanted to honor his mama, he had less resources to use  in construction.

Historical aside:  India has been a multi-religious country all during its history.  The main religion is signaled in the name of the city.  All the cites that end in “bad” were primarily Muslim or Mogul cites such as Aurangabad and Ahmedabad.  The cities started by the Hindus end in “pur”, Jaipur, and  Jaisalmer.  Today, of course, the different faiths  live side by side.

One personal memory of this place was the story that the day before we visited, there was a bee attack on the porch area, just to the entrance on the right. Tourists had to  visit the hospital and there was much panic.  The next day, when we were there, several guards wouldn’t let us walk around the building near the nest, letting sleeping bees lie, I guess.  Hindus  would not have killed the bees but  Muslims had no such teaching, so we have no idea if the bees were lying in wait for unsuspecting visitors.  We were glad that it wasn’t wild monkeys and not curious enough to try and sneak onto that side for a peak !

Following are three other posts I have written about the Taj.  Enjoy !

http://talesalongtheway.com/2015/03/14/a-twist-on-the-taj-mahal-story/

David says I look like Hillary dancing in the next one!

http://talesalongtheway.com/2014/12/11/dancing-harlem-shake-style-at-the-taj-mahal/

http://talesalongtheway.com/2015/03/15/security-in-india-the-taj-mahal/


Decorative Elements of the Taj

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Namaste !

Islam forbids human or animal figures be used in decoration. It is their belief that God alone has the power to create life. Today, I am showing you images from the artistic decorative elements of the Taj with marble, semiprecious stones, carvings, and calligraphy and all created in the 16 C to be a burial  monument for the beloved queen.

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Image result for decorative elements of the Taj

 

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Some of the 2013  students , actually most of them, spent the whole day in the Garden of Paradise, filming, sketching and just observing the changes of color and light . This was amazing as no food or water is allowed on the grounds and no, not one, persistent beggar or vendor.  It did seems like paradise.  When we went back in 2015, pens and or pencils were confiscated meaning no sketching. As  they had grown to really enjoy the sketching. this was a huge disappointment.   We only stayed 2-3 hours the second time.

This is a beautiful video for those with  interest and time!

David always says there is a reason sites are so full of tourists.. . . because they, the sites, are   so special. I hope you have had a tiny taste of this, one of  the the most spectacular buildings in the world  still today, built  hundred of years ago.